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Ergothioneine (CAS No.: 497-30-3) has gained increasing attention in the dermatology and cosmetic fields due to its potent antioxidant, cytoprotective, and anti-inflammatory properties. While it can be sourced from mushrooms and various cyanobacteria, recent biotechnological advances have enabled the production of high-purity, sustainable ergothioneine through bio-fermentation techniques, making it highly suitable for cosmetic formulations. In this blog post, SACH, a high performance cosmetic raw material manufacturer, will share the moisturizing effects of bio-fermented ergothioneine for skin.
1. Understanding Ergothioneine (CAS No.: 497-30-3): Biochemistry and Functionality
Ergothioneine (EGT) is a unique low-molecular-weight thiol compound characterized by a sulfur atom bonded to an imidazole ring. Unlike other common antioxidants like glutathione, EGT is exceptionally stable in physiological conditions, resisting auto-oxidation. This stability stems from its tautomeric equilibrium between thiol and thione forms, which is biased toward the thione – making it less prone to oxidative degradation.
Structurally, EGT:
* Has a molecular formula of C₉H₁₅N₃O₂S
* Exists in zwitterionic form at neutral pH, enhancing solubility and compatibility with aqueous formulations
* Can be transported into skin cells via the OCTN1 (SLC22A4) transporter, ensuring bioavailability at target sites
The bio-fermentation process typically employs engineered strains of *Escherichia coli* or *Saccharomyces cerevisiae* capable of expressing the complete ergothioneine biosynthetic pathway. This enables a controlled, high-yield, and eco-friendly method of production, free from the variability and contamination risks associated with mushroom-derived extracts.
2. Moisturizing Mechanism of Ergothioneine for Skin
Ergothioneine (CAS No.: 497-30-3) supports skin hydration through multiple synergistic biological actions:
2.1. Protection of Epidermal Barrier Function
One of the key aspects of skin hydration is the maintenance of the stratum corneum barrier, which minimizes transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Ergothioneine:
* Reduces oxidative damage to ceramide synthase enzymes, preserving ceramide synthesis
* Maintains tight junction proteins such as claudin-1 and occludin
* Inhibits lipid peroxidation in epidermal cells, preventing barrier lipid degradation
2.2. Enhancement of Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs)
NMFs such as urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), and lactic acid are critical for water retention in the outer skin layers. By reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS), EGT indirectly promotes the activity of filaggrin, a precursor protein involved in NMF generation.
2.3. Anti-Inflammatory Regulation
Inflammation disrupts skin hydration by damaging epithelial layers and altering lipid metabolism. Ergothioneine suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g., IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α), helping to:
* Stabilize the extracellular matrix (ECM)
* Inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), especially MMP-1 and MMP-9
* Preserve hyaluronic acid levels by downregulating hyaluronidase enzymes
2.4. Mitochondrial Protection and ATP Synthesis
Skin cells require energy to synthesize lipids, proteins, and other components of the hydrolipidic film. Ergothioneine has been demonstrated to accumulate in mitochondria, where it:
* Reduces oxidative stress
* Preserves mitochondrial membrane potential
* Enhances ATP generation required for biosynthetic processes involved in moisturizing agent production
3. Formulation Considerations
Formulating bio-fermented ergothioneine (CAS No.: 497-30-3) into moisturizing skin care products involves several technical considerations:
3.1. Stability and Compatibility
Due to its inherent chemical stability, EGT remains intact in a wide pH range (pH 4–7), ideal for topical applications. However:
* It should be protected from prolonged UV exposure, which can degrade its efficacy
* Antioxidant synergy with tocopherol or ascorbyl phosphate can enhance performance
3.2. Solubility
Ergothioneine is water-soluble and can be incorporated into:
* Emulsions (creams, lotions)
* Gels
* Aqueous serums
Typical usage concentrations range from 0.1% to 1.0%, depending on the desired intensity and combination with other actives.
3.3. Delivery Systems
To optimize dermal penetration and stability, ergothioneine can be encapsulated in:
* Liposomes or nanosomes
* Cyclodextrin complexes
* Biopolymeric hydrogels
Such encapsulation systems not only enhance percutaneous absorption but also modulate release kinetics, providing prolonged hydration benefits.
4. Synergistic Ingredients for Enhanced Hydration
Bio-fermented ergothioneine' s effects can be amplified when combined with complementary moisturizing agents such as:
* Hyaluronic Acid: Provides direct humectant effect and structural hydration
* Ceramides: Reinforce lipid barrier and TEWL control
* Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Enhances keratinocyte proliferation and water retention
* Niacinamide: Supports barrier repair and AQP3 expression, synergizing with EGT
These combinations help in designing comprehensive formulations targeting both immediate moisturization and long-term skin barrier enhancement.
5. Safety Profile and Regulatory Aspects
Ergothioneine produced via fermentation is classified as generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for topical use. Toxicological studies show:
* No irritation in patch tests at concentrations up to 2%
* No sensitization or mutagenicity in standard assays
* Safe for use in sensitive-skin formulations, including periocular products
Regulatory clearance has been granted in major cosmetic markets including the EU, US (per CIR recommendations), and Japan.
6. Environmental and Sustainability Considerations
Compared to traditional plant or animal-derived moisturizing ingredients, bio-fermented ergothioneine:
* Requires significantly lower water and land usage
* Has a lower carbon footprint due to efficient microbial fermentation
* Is vegan and cruelty-free, aligning with current consumer demand for ethical skincare solutions
Additionally, fermentation processes can be carried out in closed-loop bioreactors, minimizing environmental contamination and maximizing yield consistency.
Conclusion
The unique molecular properties of bio-fermented ergothioneine (CAS No.: 497-30-3), coupled with its ability to regulate redox balance, protect dermal structure and maintain moisturizing mechanisms at the cellular level, make it an indispensable ingredient in advanced cosmetic formulations. As biotechnology continues to improve its production and delivery processes, ergothioneine not only provides consumers with effective moisturizing, but also brings lasting skin health and elasticity.
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